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月別アーカイブ: 2010年11月

Jazz Cafes

In spite of playing the saxophone while growing up, I never really got into listening to music. That is until I joined the jazz band in high school. I know, I know. I was a band nerd. But I swear the ones who did jazz band were cool! Nonetheless, thanks to that fateful event I still continue to listen and love jazz.

However, despite Tokyo having a good reputation for jazz, I was weary to see what it could bring to the table. I suppose I have been spoiled with my past experiences and connections within the jazz world and besides, comparing New York City jazz to Tokyo jazz is like comparing apples and oranges. So in any case, I was excited to see what Tokyo had to offer.

Although, mainly due to the price (ticket, food/drink, and train), I haven’t been able to make it to too many gigs. Therefore, this blog isn’t going to be about the quality of jazz in Tokyo but rather about the treasures of the Japanese jazz scene, the jazz cafes.

Thanks to the Tokyo Jazz Society, I am just beginning to break into the world of the jazz kissaten. Although many of these gems have closed down in recent years, many are still kickin’. Jazz cafes are usually more akin to a small bar-type atmosphere. They are different from jazz bars and jazz clubs in that they usually don’t have live musicians. Instead, they continuously play all genres of jazz while customers drink coffee/beer/wine, read jazz books/magazines and chat with other jazz lovers. Often times a group similar to ours will be holding a meeting or a get together that is in some way, shape or form related to jazz. I love being in jazz cafes. It gives me that sense of community that seems to be disappearing.

Do you have your own community? Where can you find it?

Superhero Speak Easy

I went several times to the Speak Easy Bar. It is located north of Tokyo at Otsuka Station on the JR Line. Exiting through the north exit, it takes only 20 seconds to go to the bar. Yes! It’s really close to the station!

Now I know the bar staff and everyone is very nice! It is an international bar where you can meet people from different nationalities: French, Japanese, English, German, Russian … The setting is friendly and festive! Everyone is talking to everyone. It’s interesting to talk with people from different horizons. Most Japanese who come can speak English and even French.

That evening the staff was dressed as Bioman. We left the bar around half past midnight to catch the last train. We headed to Shibuya and found ourselves in the WOMB nightclub.

During the trip people were surprised to see us. They were laughing on seeing the costumes. In Japan sentai series are very famous. When the train stopped the French were a guard of honor for people who came in and out. The atmosphere was festive and fun.

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The Japanese came to take pictures and chat with the super hero.

They made special sentai poses! People were shooting with cameras! So delirious!

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They could enter the Womb with their disguise. Inside the music was mainly electro, house … What’s good about this club is that there several rooms with different atmosphere.

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We ended around 5am. First we went to eat Burger King before going home to sleep.

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Yatsugatake

You may or may not have heard the expression, “The best part of living in a big city is leaving it.” but I can say that there is plenty of truth behind it. Don’t get me wrong, I love the excitement of a big city but Stevie Wonder wasn’t lying when he wrote Livin’ for the City, as sometimes that’s what it feels like us city people are doing.

Therefore, any chance that I can, I try and get out of the city and breath in some fresh air. Last month, I went to Yatsugatake in Yamanashi Prefecture. By car, it takes a little over 2 hrs to get there from Tokyo (although coming back took us 5 hrs because of the traffic!). The trip was mostly just for relaxing but we also managed to fit in a leisurely mountain drive, a visit or two to a couple farms, two trips to the hot springs (yes… naked AND it was the first time I was meeting my boyfriend’s mother!), and a nabe dinner party!

However, the best part of the trip was the big, blue sky. It reminded me of my hometown of Denver, Colorado and also reminded me of what I believe we should consider important in life. You see, in big cities we are surrounded by shops and the media making us believe that we need all those materialistic things. Basically, the more you look, the more you want. But when you’re surrounded by nature, you are reminded that you don’t need those things. Bascially, the more you look, the better you feel. I like that.

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Green Thumb

I’m in love…. with my window garden.

I don’t know if this is due to living in a city of 13 million people or whether it is caused by my age but I’m becoming quite a fan of “gardening” as of late. I parenthesized gardening because well, let`s be honest… it’s not a garden, it`s a window sill. But nonetheless, I’m a proud mom of six potted plants, including my basil plant which I often enjoy in insalata caprese (i.e. on top of slices of mozzarella and tomato with a little olive oil and balsamic vinegar). Yum!

Actually, it all started with the basil plant. I bought one of those newbie sets at Tokyuu Hands a couple months back and ever since then have been nurturing it along with my others. I can`t say that I’ve had luck with gardening before as most plants I tended to before are… *cough* no longer with us. But for some reason, I thought I was too good for those sets. I guess I used to always overlook them thinking to myself, “What am I? An idiot? All I have to do is give it water, right?” but apparently that isn`t the secret to gardening. I now realize it’s like anything else in life… you gotta give it love and understanding to get anything back in return. Gosh, I`m getting old and sappy! HA!

Recently, I’ve been thinking about getting another plant, perhaps another herb? Any ideas?

Hakone, Part 2

After a hearty breakfast, we went to have a shower and to tidy up our stuff. The room must be vacated by 11am!

Bye bye to the ryokan and on to the next step! We continued the ascent via the funicular. Already many people are around in this hour. In fact the weather was really nice.

We stopped at Owakudani, the “great boiling valley”. As we arrive we are stuck in the throat by the strong smell of sulfur. It’s like smelling stink bombs. Not very pleasant.

We can dig into the valley to visit the hot springs surging more than 80 degrees. The clouds of vapors escape from crevices. An unreal atmosphere.

The specialty is black egg “kurotamago” cooked directly in the hot springs. Basically these are quite normal eggs but they turn black while cooking, because of the sulfur in natural waters from the valley. It is said that by eating an egg, we can extend our life of 7 years longer.

Going down the cable car we arrived at Lake Ashi. It is a large lake with a circumference of 21km. We boarded the boat to take a cruise on the lake. No need to pay with our Hakone Free Pass!

On a sunny day you can see Mount Fuji from the lake. Although it was sunny that day, the many clouds completely covered Mount Fuji! Shame! However, the cruise was very enjoyable. The lake water is profound and mesmerizing. The view of other mountains and valleys was splendid.

Once across the lake we went to eat in one of the few restaurants. On the menu a nice big bowl of ramen well trimmed for about 600 yen. Once sated, we decided to go towards Tokyo.

But on the way we stopped to visit Odawara castle. From the station it takes only a 15 minute walk. Then from the castle, you can access the beach within 10 minutes. Ok it’s not really a super beach because not very well equipped and full of pebbles. Nevertheless there are nice little pictures to see with mountains behind.

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Hakone, Part 1

Hakone is a town renowned for its hot springs.

It is approximately 85 kilometers from Tokyo. It takes about 1h30 by JR train .

We left Tokyo station to catch a Kodama bullet train. We stopped at Odawara and made a transfer by Odakyu Line. At Odawara we bought the Hakone Free Pass. It provides access to all Transport of the Hakone area: buses, lift, cable car, boat … Mine cost 3900 yen.

We booked a ryokan the day before. The cost of a night per person was about 9800 yen. Not so expensive but cheap I think.

Around 18h we arrived at the station to the hotel where a driver specially picked us up. The ryokan is only 5 minutes on foot. Arriving in our room we were surprised because it was so huge! A room with 4 futons, a small lounge attached, another double bedroom and another isolated room with space for 2. We were 6 but we could easily accommodate 5 other people!

The ryokan was huge and we got lost in the corridors. The staff were very friendly and attentive. They helped us finding our dining room. Dinner was served in the minutes that followed. Everything is served in a private room. The atmosphere and decor were completely exotic. The food was fine and varied. A very nice time! And once our stomachs full, off to the onsens!

In our building we had access to the onsen, a little small. But in the other building there were other greater onsens. The water is very hot! For those who don’t know in onsen you must get naked! No place for shyness …

After a hot bath there is nothing better than a good cold beer! Then we played cards in our room. Around 1 am everybody went to sleep…

The next day we’ve been woken at 8.30am by telephone from the hotel. We were told that breakfast is ready! Head still in the ass we went painfully towards our lunch room. For a meal of no coffee, no croissants and even no bread and butter and jam …

It was the typical Japanese breakfast: grilled fish, soup, steamed vegetables, rice and tea.

It was a bit difficult but the appetite comes with eating. My friends really had trouble eating. ^ ^

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Ueno and bicycles

Two stations from my guesthouse is the Ueno district.

It includes a huge park with a zoo, several temples, museums and even a baseball field. This park is a very pleasant place to jog. It is a very convenient place to recharge when you get tired of stressful Tokyo.

You will be enchanted by this spacious place full of greenery. Really beautiful!

Last time I went it was very hot. While I was taking pictures of flowers many mosquitoes bit me.

Amateur photographers will marvel at the various temples, density of the green and search every corner of the park. There is a huge square near the fountain. And why not lay down and spend some time on a bench to enjoy the view?

Note that there are also many homeless at Ueno Park.

Ueno is very close to Asakusa. For me it is very convenient. Recently one of my roommates kindly accepted my proposal to me lend his bike.

So to go to Asakusa will take me less than 10 minutes. I plan to go more often Ueno Park by bike.

Having a bike is really more convenient! You feel more free. And mine has a basket. So for shopping it’s ideal!

There are even special police who controls bikes. It limits bike theft … While we all know the problem in France. In Paris if you park your bike you are never sure if you will find it intact.

I think they should strengthen the control of bicycles in France.

Warning! In Japan, bikes have a registration form sticker placed on the bike. When you buy a bike they’ll ask your identity card with an address in Japan. Tourists can not buy a bike in Japan. If the police stop me I’ll say name / first name of my roommate because we are in the same guesthouse. Normally there’s no problem.

Tokyo Dome City

I suggest you go to Tokyo Dome City, a large amusement park. We went there on a Thursday afternoon. There were very few people… nice! The waiting time in queues didn’t exceed 10 minutes. There are many young people who frequent this park. The framework is enjoyable with water fountains, benches and many place to eat: fast food, restaurants, cafes… There are also baseball stores and you can also attend a baseball game in Tokyo Dome.

You should go there starting at 5pm and buy the Night Pass. It costs only 3,000 yen.

The greatest attraction of the Tokyo Dome City is the Thunder Dolphin! It’s a rollercoaster that goes into the mall. In fact it crosses the wall …

Just for this attraction, you must pay 1000 yen. With the Night you have an unlimited access to the various attractions between 5pm and 8pm! I was told that on weekends there are lots of people! The queues are often 30 minutes or even longer. So if you can, really avoid going on the weekend. Weekdays it’s perfect! You’ll love it.

The other cool attraction is “Ashikari no Ie”. A haunted house with the atmosphere of horror movies like The Ring or The grudge. Entrance fee is 800 yen.

Before entering you must take off shoes and the hostess will explain the rules: don’t run, no photos and don’t touch the actors or hit them … The goal is to walk through the house.

Upon entering the first room you’re directly put into the atmosphere: a dark room and close, on the other side there is a mirror looking at you… There’s also very disturbing noises and unnerving background music.

I went with a friend who was more scared than me. We were pushing ourselves to see who would go first. After 5 minutes we came back to the entrance. What a shame! I changed to other friend who was less scared. It was much less stressful. But in this kind of haunted house you tend to be very paranoid.

Finally it took me over 10 minutes to cross the house while most of people cross in less than 2 minutes.

Conclusion: I am a big coward! Yes I assume!

Guest “home”

Like Sands Through The Hourglass, so are the… rotation of my housemates.

One of the first good traits you’ll hear about living in a guesthouse is that you are able to meet people from around the world and this IS true. You get to know their culture, their food, their living style and maybe even a bit of their language. But most of all, you get to know them, meaning these interesting and worldly people all become your friends. You eat together, drink together, play together, learn together, cook together, study together, and generally do the things you would do with your family. However, one of the less desirable traits of the guesthouse is that all these people are on a relatively short time limit — AKA their visas expire. I’m no different but I have been fortunate enough to get a long visa with stable income while a majority of the people around me are students, people on their working holidays or in-between moves/jobs, so the guest house is really just a bit of a layover.

You’re probably thinking, “So, what’s your point?” What I’m trying to say is that these people are the reason I’m not searching for a tiny 4 tatami mat studio to live in. Basically all these people are what makes this guesthouse a home. While I look forward to each and every new housemate, I miss the people that have left. But I’m not going to get too sentimental on you; after all, I can just send them a facebook message.