Kyoto」タグアーカイブ

Takayama 1

We woke up to pouring rain in Hakone.  We got fairly wet walking to the bus stop but after that it was an easy commute to Odawara and time for the Shinkansen (bullet train)! We hopped on the bullet train bound for Nagoya and switched trains to make our way to Takayama. It was a very beautiful train ride but next to impossible to capture on camera.  We arrived in Takayama around mid-afternoon.  I was surprised at how big the city was but now I can see hot it got the nickname, “Little Kyoto”.  It doesn’t look like anything too special from first glance but with some exploration, charming streets and shops and areas emerge.  We ate Hida ramen at a tiny little shop close to the station.  Nothing to write home about but loved that we had to walk through the kitchen to get to the toilets.  After lunch we called our ryokan (a traditional Japanese inn), Hagi Takayama.  We had full intention to make our way back to walk around after settling into our room but realized that wouldn’t be happening once we got picked up in the van and made our way up into the hills.  It was a walkable distance but it would have been a risk with the threatening clouds in the distance.  So we settled into the ryokan.  It had an amazing view of Takayama city and a number of different onsens (hot springs) at the hotel to choose from, including one that was outside.  After we settled for a bit someone from the hotel did come and let us know that there was a night tour of the town after dinner we were so inclined to join in, which we did.  I’m so glad we did!  It was really nice to see the town with no people and the shops all closed up.  It gave it a much more old town Japan feel.  The streets were lined with cute little street lanterns and the streams running on the side of the streets provided a pleasant nature soundtrack.  Just beware, there are no covers to these streams… we found that out the hard way.  I highly recommend the night walk though, Takayama wouldn’t have been the same without that little excursion.

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KYOTO…. between ancient and modern

I had the opportunity to revisit Kyoto again. I must say it took a second trip for me to fall in love with this city. Why??? Well, I can say I was naive to believe people when they said : “Kyoto is ancient, you feel like you are walking in the Edo period”. When I arrived the first time, I was so disappointed to see the Kyoto tower! I was indeed hoping to see a modern city, yes, but perhaps not that modern, or perhaps I was hoping to see more ” ancient” than modern.  I was never personally fond of the mix between modern and ancient, just like some Parisians dislike the mix of  their dear Louvre Museum with that huge crystal pyramid as an entrance. I think it is very difficult to make both coexists together in harmony, but in some cases it is possible.

Kyoto is perhaps one of the most blessed cities in the world with the most beautiful temples and shrines! Yet I have an after taste that there is something “wrong” about this city. When I think again, yes, I love its shrines, I love shinbashi dori in Gion, but I dislike that around such a beauty, there are ugly buildings that completely kill the ancient atmosphere. To me, some  old houses “struggle” to exist among the new ones (Check out the picture below)

Courtesy of Homesick Home

Courtesy of "Homesick Home"

I have heard that there are laws that try to keep the harmony in some neighborhoods. I do find interesting that in some Gion corners, you are walking down in a modern street and all the sudden you find yourself  in an old street, but when they try to mix both in the same street, it just doesn’t seem to go well :

Courtesy of Home Sickhome

Courtesy of Home Sickhome

Despite all this, I have to say that I enjoyed visiting the city once more. The first time I went there I had only spent 2 days. This time I spent 5 and it was worth revisiting the sites seen and seeing others that I missed in my first visit. My favorite was the twin dragons ceiling painting in Kennin-ji! That is to me a perfect combination of modern and ancient! The painting was made in 2002!

copyright machiyainn

copyright machiyainn