Rikugien is a traditional garden near Sugamo Station. According to the brochure:

“This strolling, mountain and pond-style garden was created based on the theme of Waka poetry in the 15th year of the Genroku Period (1702) by the shogun, Tokugawa Tsunayoshi’s trusted confidante Yanagisawa Yoshiyasu. This garden is a typical example of the famous gardens of Edo Period. In the Meiji Period, this garden became a second residence of the founder of Mitsubishi, Iwasaki Yataro. Later, in the 13th year of Showa (1938), the Iwasaki family donated this garden to the City of Tokyo, and in Showa 28 (1953) it was designated as a special site of exceptional beauty and an important cultural asset.”

Tragically some of the landmarks in the garden, including stone formations in the lake as well as one of the structures, were damaged in the Tohoku earthquake six months ago.

The garden is about a half hour walk from where I live, and miraculously I did not get lost on my way there. It was 300 yen to enter, and I wish I’d brought a book to manufacture a bit more patience to sit and enjoy the scenery. Rikugien was a strange oasis in the middle of the city, with huge trees that blotted out the sky in places, and everywhere cast this incredibly cooling shade. The noise of the wildlife – bugs and birds – was almost deafening, especially with summertime’s constant cicada hum. It may be quieter now that winter’s set in, but it’s still a little oasis in the middle of the big city.