Travel」タグアーカイブ

Ear to the Ground

mixtape

Throughout the course of my life, I’ve avoided succumbing to the vapid materialism that has plagued our generation. Okay, this isn’t entirely true; I was an incessant, notorious player/gambler/collector/mafioso of marbles as a child – there’s still a bathtub-sized container of glass baubles in storage to prove it. Aside from this childish obsession, a nomadic life even inside one’s own city limits teaches us that ‘having things’ quickly becomes more burden than boon. Schlepping furniture up and down three flights of stairs every spring (if not you, at least one of your friends will be guaranteed to ask for help moving) will bring out the minimalist in anyone. In that sense, I arrived in Tokyo with the bare essentials: clothes, toiletries, a few good notebooks, laptop, and music.

19853 songs, a small warehouse of vinyl pressings condensed to two wallet-sized hard drives. I am a voracious consumer of music, and its digitization has done nothing but enable my addiction. Were I to point the finger at anyone, a father obsessed with ‘60s psych and folk rock, a mother with draconian fervor that her sons would take up a musical instrument. Being the youngest, I would quickly cobble together the hand-me-down musical tastes from my older brothers into something never quite in line with my peers, a sensibility ‘ahead of the curve’. Let’s just say the snobbery started early and leave it at that.

Teaching at the university level has its perks, namely that I can hold a large group of 18-21 years-olds hostage for hours on end without any guff from the police (yet). I was curious not only about what kinds of music they were enjoying, more moreso how they stumbled upon it. My interrogation came to two horrible conclusions: that the vast majority of students discovered tunes only through anime intro themes and karaoke idols, and an even smaller minority had ever attended a live musical performance.

One of my key concerns over the past year comes from the laser-focused myopia of this younger generation. It’s not a question, as in most cases, of access to cultural tools but rather excess of access and a complete acceptance with the status quo. In a sense I can sympathize with this complacency, media has burrowed and entrenched itself into every waking hour, possibly beyond that. Your television show uses four cameras at once, grocery aisles echo with high-pitched recorded loops, the walls of trafficked routes are plastered with myriad advertisements, bright colours, weird pseudo-sexual iconography. The onslaught is exhausting, it’s easier to drift along with the current than swim against it. Developing a musical taste requires effort and time, the latter of which is likely a Japanese youth’s scarcest commodity.

“It’s really hard, certainly harder than touring abroad”, says Aki, a frontman in three Tokyo punk bands. “It’s almost as if things are stacked up as high as possible to prevent you from playing, never mind making it. The band pays the venue, instead of the other way around. Because Japan is so small, there are only so many shows we can play before wearing ourselves too thin. It’s not like there aren’t kids, the kids are there and they’re hungry, but how that translates back to the band’s success is hard to understand.” Tokyo’s local scene uncovers a massive collective, sharing instruments, transportation, equipment, even band members. “At the end of the day, we want it the most, but none of us would survive on our own. The scene feeds and clothes itself during the daytime, then goes to work at night.”

Until you fall in with the scene, or like me spend a few too many evenings in Shibuya and Ueno dive bars, Time Out Tokyo is your best bet for finding gigs, venues, and festivals featuring local and touring bands alike. Although Japan may not be a musical powerhouse on the production end, some amazing groups will use Tokyo as a launchpad for touring or testing new material, so keep your eye out. When asked how I find new music, I’ve found this shop guide invaluable, especially for Japanese artists. As for your online fix: spend some time on Bandcamp, HypeMachine, SoundCloud, or Beatport. SoundCloud stands out for its interface and smartphone app, which is very easy to use and helpful for finding similar artists.

Surely the denizens at Oakhouse Kichijoji 2, subject to constant outside interference, would have a broad spectrum of influence to draw upon. The Smiths, Depeche Mode, The xx, Jurassic 5, Nightwish, Wowaka, J.S. Bach, Kinoku Teikoku, LM.C are just a few of the artists plucked from our local playlist (and I’m sure everyone is giving me their most conservative likes).

I simply have too much music – some of the albums I own have never had a proper listen. To remedy this, I will upload five or six LPs each month on my phone as a sort of forced digestion. In the spirit of this article, I’ve picked a few albums that stood out from the rest and are probably still in my phone. The selection is as recent as possible (2014-15), and completely all over the place. Love it or hate it, enjoy, it’s part of the journey.

TOKYO TRAVEL TUNES [2015]

The Weeknd – Beauty Behind the Madness
weeknd
A strong dark, gritty LP from one of the best voices in the genre. Falls short of his earlier ‘House of Balloons’ EP.
Check it out on Bandcamp

Royksopp – The Inevitable End
royksopp
The final chapter in this group’s tremendous discography, worthy of checking out, always strange.
Check it out on Royskopp.com

Hotline Miami – Hotline Miami 2 OST
hotline
Hard to believe it was made for a video game. Lots of DJs, differents sounds, moods, tons of energy.
Check it out on Steam, tracks are on SoundCloud

Panda Bear – Panda Bear meets the Grim Reaper
pandabear
Hands down my facourite album of the past two years. It’s that good.
Check it out on Amazon

Kurt Vile – b’lieve I’m Going Down
kurtvile
Simple is good, and Vile doesn’t pull any punches. Great for long rides on the rail line.
Check it out on Kurtvile.com

Lapalux – Some Other Time
lapalux
Otherwordly, glitchy beats grounded in funk and soul. Lapalux also does fantastic remixes and DJ sessions.
Check it out on SoundCloud

Springtime Carnivore – Springtime Carnivore
springtime carnivore
I stumpled upon this artist at random and completely fell in love with her voice, fantastic LP.
Check it out on Bandcamp

Beach House – Depression Cherry
beachhouse
Though not as strong as their earlier releases, solid release with wistful songs to walk through the park.
Check it out on Bandcamp

High on Fire – Luminiferous
highonfire
My metal fix. When I need that energy before work, or simply want to tune everything out.
Check it out on Amazon

Aphex Twin – Syro
FINAL MASTER SYRO DIGIPAK.indd
Describing Aphex Twin is no easy task, and this is a ‘difficult’ record for sure.
Check it out on Warp

Steel Rail Blues

Kichijoji StationThe daily grind on the Chuo Line.

I can think of no better way to enjoy a brisk autumn day than a bike ride, especially if it ends at the park, paired wonderfully with wine and cheese. I have been an avid cyclist my entire life, foregoing buying a car out of principle , instead dreaming of the parts I could buy for my next bike build. Tokyo seemed like a cyclist’s dream, and for the most part that statement holds true. Yet ultimately we must face certain realities: the geographical vastness and frenzied pace of life in Tokyo.

If I leave for work an hour earlier, I may be able to cycle there in time. But what if there’s a meeting in Yokohama? That’s another two hours, I’d never make it home. It soon dawned on me with a crushing sense of defeat that, just like almost everyone else in Tokyo, I would have to use the train and subway systems as part of my daily commute.

Japan Rail, Keio, Tokyu, Seibu, Tokyo Metro, etc., there are almost as many operators as there are rail lines. The Greater Tokyo Area is home to the world’s largest transport network, and over half the population uses it as a primary means of transportation. An overlay of the metro and rail maps reveals a chaotic spiderweb of transfers, routes, and cross-stations. Upon my arrival it all seemed a bit too labyrinthine, but there is an odd method to the madness when you realise the sheer volume of daily riders most stations have to accommodate.

Below I’ve outlined some of the core tenets of riding in the GTA, so learn from my blunders! Navigating the rails will become second-nature (whether you like it or not).

    • ▸  Plan your route ahead of time. A trip that would be fairly direct via car could be quite complicated using railways, especially heading towards the centre of Tokyo. Although delays are inevitable, the monitors above each railcar door communicate pertinent information. Sites like Jorudan and Google Maps (Along with their respective smartphone apps) are invaluable tools.
    • ▸  Do not be surprised if the fare price is ridiculous. If you intend on working in Japan, discussing travel accommodation from your employer is reasonable, if not expected. Price is determined relative to your distance from your destination, unlike the single fare you would expect on a Western transportation line. If it’s not too far, it can sometimes be cheaper and faster to walk.
    • ▸  Ditch the paper tickets after you’ve gotten your bearings. A PASMO / Suica charge card may only offer a two-yen fare discount, but save you the hassle of carrying fistfuls of coins or worrying about losing your paper fare. Losing a ticket between stations could turn into a complete nightmare, transit officials regard it as a major offense. PASMO cards are also accepted as debit in shops around stations and combinis.
    • ▸  Wait in the demarcated lines and queue up on the platform. Allow passengers to deboard before filing in (do not cut the queue!). The Japanese are too well-mannered and soft-spoken to call out your misstep, but rest assured you are not doing anything to help the gaijin cause.
    • ▸  As a gaijin, do not be surprised or offended if some passengers go out of their way to avoid sitting next to you, even if there are plenty of empty seats, Maybe your beard is too big, your clothes too loud and colourful, or you’re showing too much cleavage – maybe there’s a gaijin pheromone our noses have not adapted to yet. It happens.
    • ▸  Talking at any length for anyone over student age is frowned upon in direct proportion to how crowded the car is. Keep the murmuring to a minimum and phonecalls for emergencies only.train_aloneA rare glimpse of solitude.
    • ▸  Tokyo is a vertically integrated city, and space comes at a premium. The same applies to the train. Occupy the smallest amount of real estate possible, even when standing or trying to grab a quick nap. Bring extra baggage only if absolutely necessary. While it may be tempting to sprawl out after a long day at work, remember you are but a Tetris piece on a moving puzzle. Comfort yourself with reminders that a hot shower and warm bed await you at home.
    • ▸  In a work culture like Japan, someone nodding off and falling asleep on your shoulder is fairly routine. Many people have grueling schedules that involve lengthy commutes, it might be their only time in the day to get some rest. More specifically, you are guaranteed to fall asleep on someone else at some point during your stay in Japan.
    • ▸  If possible avoid the larger stations directly after the end of the workday, as everyone will be rushing to get home. Riders are literally poked and prodded onto cars in an effort to pack each car like sardines in a tin box. Unless you enjoy body contortion, a sudden sense of claustrophobia, or the odd elbow in your back, grab a cup of coffee and take the train twenty minutes later. Your muscles will thank you.
    • ▸  The bilingual intercom will switch to Japanese-only after 6 PM, especially along the older or less populated rail / metro lines.train_pushIt feels worse than it looks.
    • ▸  Signage is important, and very often not in English. Take the time to learn the Kanji and Hiragana / Katakana symbols for your most frequented stops. I can more easily recognize ‘Hachioji’ now out of a list of stations than its English spelling ( Hachioji Station).
    • ▸  Passengers will blatantly stare at whatever you are reading, drawing, playing, or attempting to write (there were at least four sets of eyes on me as I scribbled the first draft of this article into my notebook). To salvage what little privacy remains , or avoid embarrassment most Japanese people will cover their literature with nondescript material. If you err on the more clandestine side, by all means follow suit. Personally, I find it strange and counterintuitive, a small glimpse into one of the larger problems in modern Japanese culture. It is a topic of contention among members of the sharehouse, where opinions and reasoning for ‘The Great Covering’ are greatly divided.
    • ▸  Last but not least, pick a station at random, a station not on your usual route and make that your destination. Traveling (and getting lost) on the web of rails is one of the easiest ways to discover little corners of Tokyo you wouldn’t have never known existed.train_self

Send help!

If you have anything to add, or just flat-out think I’m wrong, I’d love to hear your opinions. My contact information is below.

Kichijoji Station

The Guests’ Arrival

One does not simply cross the street in Tokyo.
Out of the Frying Pan …

“Douzo”, uttered the customs officer as he swiftly guided me into the proper line, the first Japanese word ever directed at yours truly. A brisk spring morning had turned into warm afternoon at Narita Airport, I was bleak and bleary-eyed among the sea ​​of ​​new arrivals. With no working cellphone and armed only with a Japanese phrasebook I searched frantically up and down the terminal for my escort. I rushed to the information desk and motioned for the intercom, but the clerks just smiled widely and shook their heads. In a fit of desperation, exhaustion, and hunger I yelled her name at the top of my lungs. Strike one, my first major faux-pas, and I had been on Japanese soil for less than six hours. Nevertheless a small figure emerged from the crowd.

Mio, my escort-savior was a godsend in every sense of the word. She happily took one of my overstocked suitcases in tow and paid the train fares. The barrage of new smells, signage, colourful wall-to-wall advertisements with strange pictograms , it was strangely (and briefly) invigorating. I fumbled through the phrasebook in search of smalltalk, but as we neared the city center the trains grew crowded, forcing us to separate. Cheerful automated teleprompter aside, the train cart was eerily silent. The passengers made no attempt to converse, heads bowed in what seemed a solemn vigil. I was so accustomed to the controlled chaos of the Montreal and New York City subways, this new quiet was alarming and awkward. Before I could rest my eyes, Mio nudged me in the ribs and motioned to hop off at the next stop.

We arrived at Inokashirakoen Station under cover of darkness, the Oakhouse manager waiting patiently in the moving van (we were two hours late), he laughed. “You look tired.” -. I suppose the expression is universal I had left Montreal in a different darkness, and as I sat atop my luggage I assessed my current temporal juxtaposition. The flight had traveled west, yet time now slingshot in the other direction, settling on a total travel time somewhere between forty hours and three weeks. We stepped out into the night air of what could have been literally Anywhere, Tokyo. After explaining the general lay of the land, the manager mercifully guided me towards the nearest mattress. I kissed Mio on both cheeks (the shock!) and slipped into coma.

Finding your Footing on the Other Side of the World

“Where am I!?” Is not uncommon to say or think when waking in a strange bed, but it was now a genuine concern. The course of events over the last few months suddenly seemed so slapdash and haphazard. At the start of 2015 I had given myself the ultimatum to either enter medical school or ‘finally do that Japan thing’. As a young lad I voraciously consumed anything ninja or samurai-related, keeping the ideal that Japan is nothing but bucolic mountainside complete with tatami mat houses and . Shinto shrines, or light-years ahead with robotic servants and self-driving flying cars Back home, my design business was spinning in circles ;. I had settled into a very comfortable little rut Montreal has such a wonderful abandon, with its bars, cafes, huge parks and general ‘laissez-faire’ attitude all neatly packaged within walking distance. I had been offered a job in Japan with a reputable ESL company in 2013, but quickly found that were I to ever make the move, it would be for a position with more autonomy.

Hachioji Tokyo University of Technology’s Hachioji campus.

Through no effort of my own, I was contacted by Tokyo University of Technology, and one long Skype interview later had signed my life over to them for the next year. I had six weeks to surgically dismantle my Montreal life, rid myself of all earthly possessions, and find a place to call home for the next year. This would be my first time in Japan, with any information anecdotal at best. The concept of a Tokyo apartment was daunting because I knew nothing of the city, its geographical layout, or cultural hotspots. By leasing out a shoebox (what I would be able to afford after key money), being potentially ‘locked in’ to an area I disliked or would make my commute a nightmare could ruin the Tokyo experience entirely.

Pick a Direction and Start Walking

Sharehouses work because many of your co-inhabitants have struggled with that exact thought process, and found solace in uniting the effort (or diffusing it) under one roof, a ‘We’re in this mess together’ attitude. The price of admission are the sacrifices (and benefits) of communal living. Even if you are fiercely independent and covet your personal space like I do, the potential for cross-cultural interchange and reconciliation is boundless. On a much more humble scale, Tokyo is a monolithic mass of fourteen million, the sheer volume of humanity at any given moment can leave you feeling small and invisible. It is reassuring to come home to a familiar face and hear a warm “okaeri” (“welcome back”, roughly).

While sharehouses may be waystations for travelers from all walks of life, the constant influx of fresh faces keeps the group dynamic from growing stagnant. In most cases, there are a core group of ‘veterans’ who are ready and willing to help complete lost causes like myself. Become a veteran, and you will soon have a second family.

The first weeks were largely lost in a hazy, jet-lagged daze, slowly acclimatizing as I settled into a proper work and travel schedule. One of the lasting moments from that tenuous first month I was walking with a housemate through Inokashira Park, a horseshoe slice of heaven Cloven in Two by the Kando River, on the Tip That the local Donkihote (an Indispensable one-stop Shop) Could solve my Amenities problem.

20150402_163417_Richtone (HDR)

Hanami in Inokashira Park Hanami in Inokashira Park.

It was only after my substantial purchases that I realized a grave overestimation of my conversion skills, having left Canada with $ 200 instead of $ 2000. It would be two very lean months, quite literally. On the return trip a very Japanese “Bonjourno! “Rang out amidst the perpetual hum of the crowd. The cherry blossoms were in bloom and the park completely covered by picnic blankets. An older Japanese man with a sake bottle in the one hand flagged me down with the other. He introduced himself only as ‘Chris’, despite his wife Aota and brother Takeshi.

“There’s no sake in Italy”, he remarked as he refilled my cup and Aota offered more sushi. Chris had not the least concern for my financial woes, only with making sure he had introduced the full spectrum of Asian booze. We drank through two life stories, occasionally interrupted by children who wanted to take photos with ‘the bearded man’. Looking back some months later, the afternoon seems trivial. Yet in that brief moment of despair, Chris and his motley crew meant the world.

As someone who has lived in many countries across the globe, Tokyo is and will remain a difficult place to exist in. Our Western notions of Japan and the Japanese people are utterly antiquated or misdirected, and an open dialogue needs to be established and maintained. I invite you to stick it out with me and our Oakhouse family as I write about Japan, daily life in the sharehouse, arts and events, and anything in-between.

Cheers for now.